The motherboard can fail due to power surges, power supply malfunction, through the fault of the owner, or simply from old age. This breakdown promises the disadvantaged computer owner long troubles in the state house - in the event that he cannot cope on his own. But you can try to repair the motherboard yourself.
Necessary
- - liquid rosin and solder;
- - soldering station or soldering iron with a thin tip and adjustable heating;
- - scalpel;
- - tweezers.
Instructions
Step 1
First, you need to make sure that it is the motherboard that has failed. Rent a known working power supply unit from a friend. Unplug the computer from the electrical outlet, remove the side panel and disconnect your power supply from the motherboard, plugging in a working one. Connect the electricity and press the Power button. If the computer starts up (the indicator on the board lights up, the processor cooler spins, a short single beep is heard from the speaker), then the problem is in the power supply.
Step 2
If nothing has changed, the motherboard may be faulty. If it is within the warranty period, return the unit to your dealer for repair or replacement. Otherwise, try to figure out the reason for the breakdown - there is still nothing to lose. Remove the motherboard from the case by unscrewing the screws that secure it. Place the device on a table and examine it carefully. The most common cause of failure is electrolytic capacitors - small cylinders with cross-shaped notches applied to the upper end. This end should be flat. If the top of the capacitor is swollen or liquid leaks onto the circuit board around it, you have found a malfunction.
Step 3
It is better to change all capacitors of the same type, even if only one is out of order. The capacity of the new capacitors should be the same, the voltage can be higher. For soldering the elements, it is better to use a soldering station - there is less chance of damaging the board and elements. If this is not possible, find a desoldering pump and a soldering iron with a thin tip and an adjustable heating temperature. Mount the board vertically. Remove all the old capacitors one by one - to do this, carefully warm up the soldering points on the back of the board by swinging the capacitor with tweezers.
Step 4
To put new elements, you need to free the holes in the board from the tin. Warm up the pad with a soldering iron and try to remove the tin with a suction. If it doesn't work out, place a thin metal rod on the hole, holding it with tweezers, and heat it with a soldering iron, pushing it down. As a last resort, you can use a drill with a thin drill.
Step 5
When installing the legs of the capacitors into the holes, observe the polarity - "plus" is marked both on the body of the device and on the board. Separate the leads of the electrodes from the back of the board for stability, cut off the excess with pliers. Lubricate the legs with liquid rosin with a heated soldering iron, then apply a little tin.
Step 6
If, when examining the board, you find damaged conductive paths, carefully use a narrow scalpel or blade to remove the varnish on both sides of the defective area. Remove the thin wire from the copper cable, cut a piece of the desired length. Tin the ends of the wiring and the stripped places on the track and gently solder. This method will help if the damage is not too deep: the motherboard is a multilayer device. The inner layers cannot be repaired.
